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Top chefs are sounding the alarm: Söder is ignoring the gourmet elite!
Seven top chefs criticize Söder for the lack of appreciation of gastronomy in Germany, meeting in Munich's "Tantris".
Top chefs are sounding the alarm: Söder is ignoring the gourmet elite!
In an open conversation in the renowned Munich restaurant “Tantris”, seven of Germany’s best chefs sharply criticized the political and social appreciation of top-class gastronomy. Among those present was Jan Hartwig, a three-star chef from Munich, who described Bavaria's Prime Minister Markus Söder as a "flawless populist". Hartwig, who also cited French President Emmanuel Macron as a positive example in the group, criticized the fact that Söder, unlike Macron, does not invite top chefs to the Élysée Palace and therefore does not value the culinary heritage.
The chefs, whose restaurants have a total of 18 Michelin stars, emphasize the importance of their gastronomy for tourism in Germany. Christian Bau, head chef at “Victor’s Fine Dining”, pointed out that of the billions sought in the areas of tourism and culture, hardly any goes into top cuisine. “It is humiliating that our work and the tourist attraction that we create are not recognized,” said Bau in the interview.
Criticism of lack of appreciation
Edip Sigl, chef at the “Ess:enz” restaurant, noted that well-known political figures in Germany are rarely seen in gourmet restaurants. This underlines the criticism expressed by Alexander Huber, president of the Jeunes Restaurateurs Association (JRE), which has been active since 1991 and advocates top regional cuisine. Huber emphasized that it is time to significantly increase public appreciation of top gastronomy.
This discussion about appreciation comes at a time when the star awards of the Michelin Guide Germany 2019 have been published. A total of 53 young top chefs received stars from the JRE, including new two-star winners such as Tobias Bätz from Wirsberg and first stars for Andreas Widmann and Valentin Rottner. The JRE-Genussnetz also promotes a concept that focuses on collaboration with producers and the use of sustainable food.
A look at the future
The top chefs present are calling for a proactive policy that takes not only culinary quality seriously, but also Germany's tourist attractiveness. Edip Sigl and Christian Bau emphasize that culinary tourism must be specifically promoted. A look at Scandinavian countries shows that targeted support for top-class cuisine has a clear positive impact on tourism.
The affected chefs see the poor appreciation as a missed opportunity for German gastronomy. It remains to be seen whether Söder and politicians in Bavaria will respond to this criticism. The clear message from the top chefs is: The renowned Berlin festival is just as valuable as the top gastronomy in Germany.